The following are selections from my tenure at the atelier of Leon Emanuel Blanck, an avant-garde designer in Berlin. In his methodology, darts and seams are developed according to the natural shape and movement on the body, asymmetrical and organic. This allows for garments that are highly structured, but forgiving at points of pivot. This connection between garment and body is carried through to the production processes as well, which are done primarily by hand inside the Berlin atelier.
Following my on the studio team in Berlin, I now continue to collaborate remotely in the creation of digitally produced patterns, focusing primarily on leather bags, masks, and accessories.
SS27 / ILLUSIONEN
A series of bags and masks developed as a conceptual component of the studio’s “ILLUSIONEN” showroom presentation. These continue to expand the digital pattern-making method created for the previous Dino Bag. According to this methodology, seam-lines are placed on a base 3d model, determined dually on aesthetics and structural necessity. A pattern is created based on these lines, refined, and finally tested in a physical form. This allows one to reduce complex three-dimensional forms into two dimensional shapes that can be printed, cut from material, and reassembled into the original 3d form.
Designed digitally without use of AI, sampled, constructed, and photographed at the Leon Emanuel Blanck Studio
Dino Bag | DIS-DINO/01
A collaboration meant to test the viability of utilizing digital methods in the creation of geometrically complex patterns. This was the original project that developed and tested the methodology to be used later in the “ILLUSIONEN” patterns.
Designed digitally without use of AI, sampled, constructed at the Leon Emanuel Blanck Studio
Overcoat | DIS-M-OVERC/01
Designed to function as a outer shell, with room to accommodate a leather or woven undercoat. Despite being relatively oversized, structural integrity is kept in-tact via extensive seam-work. The front is fastened via cobrax snaps, and when closed seam-lines flow continuously across the chest.
Draped and fitted on a live model, patterned by hand.
Latex Seam Finishing
To allow garments to be sewn with a standard machine without unravelling, latex is applied following the construction of the seams. This process serves a dual process by sealing loose threads to the body of the garment, while visually highlighting the shape and curvature of the seams.
3/5 Pocket Card Holders | DIS-3PCH/5PCH
Card holders designed to reflect the asymmetry of the label’s designs. The front of the wallet is curved so that the cards fan out for easier access, as well as better fit the contour of a pocket. A coin pocket is created on the back, with the label’s signature seam-work running through the opening.
Sewing Samples
Much of my time at Leon’s included the actual making of garments - both samples and finished production pieces for stores. As most of the garments are produced in house, nearly everyone on the team has a hand in production at some point. For me, this consisted of jersey t-shirts, wool and duck down coats, jackets of various compositions, trousers, and others. I would often be responsible for every step of the production process from cutting to finishing.
