In 2021 I moved to Germany to intern for Leon Emanuel Blanck, a designer specializing in a unique form of pattern making - Anfractuous Distortion. In his methodology, darts and seams are developed according to the natural shape and movement on the body, asymmetrical and organic. This allows for garments that are highly structured, but forgiving at points of pivot. This connection between garment and body is carried through to the studio and production processes as well, which are done primarily by hand inside the Berlin atelier.
Following my internship I stayed on in the studio as part of the team, taking on a role that included design, production cutting/sewing, sample construction, and pattern making.
Shown is a selection of highlights from my time at the brand.
Overcoat | DIS-M-OVERC/01
Designed to function as a “shell”, with room to accommodate a leather or canvas undercoat, integrity kept intact via structural seam-work. The front is fastened via cobrax snaps, and when closed seamlines flow continuously from the upper
Draped and fitted on a live model, patterned by hand.
Latex Seam Finishing
To allow garments to be sewn with a standard machine without unravelling, latex is applied following the construction of the seams. This process seals the loose threads to the body of the garment.
3/5 Pocket Card Holders | DIS-3PCH/5PCH
Card holders designed to reflect the asymmetry of the label’s designs. The front of the wallet is curved so that the cards fan out for easier access, as well as better fit the contour of a pocket. A coin pocket is created on the back, with the label’s signature seam-work running through the opening.
Sewing Samples
Much of my time at Leon’s included the actual making of garments - both samples and finished production pieces for stores. As most of the garments are produced in house, nearly everyone on the team has a hand in production at some point. For me, this consisted of jersey t-shirts, wool and duck down coats, jackets of various compositions, trousers, and others. I would often be responsible for every step of the production process from cutting to finishing.
